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how to shoot cosplay pictures - part 2

The second part of the cosplay photography series tackles the issue of dealing with the pictures once you get them onto your computer. Be warned: the scenes you are about to view are of a graphic nature, and may be harmful to photography purists who view some of the techniques to be demonstrated to be dangerous to the art.

Viewer discretion advised. Oh, and pay attention too. This one’s going to be a big one.

Sidebar: Comments and thoughts?

I'm not a pro photographer. I'm also not a prolific photographer. Many people learn best by experience. I'm sure some of you out there have some tips on how to improve your photography. I'd also like this piece to be an evolving piece, becoming better at helping as time goes on.

With that in mind, if you know some tips that could help beginning photographers make their shots better, either on the shooting side or the digital editing side, or if you just have some comments about some of the ideas I posted here, I would appreciate some e-mail. You can send them to me at jnishi@i360.com, and I may post your hints with a future update.


 

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(Again, I write this with the caveat that I am not a professional photographer or digital touch-up artist. What I do, I do mainly from reading and practice. It is recommended that if you are seriously interested in going into digital touchup or photography as a profession that you seek the advice of a professional. Oh, and of course, the tips I show all apply to digital touchup. If your work is with film, you’ll either need to scan it into a computer, or otherwise consult a professional about fixing film images.

Photoshop name, as well as icons and commands used in the article are properties of Adobe Systems, Inc., and are used without permission.)

Well, you’ve taken the shot. Hopefully, the shot will have come out well enough out of the camera that you can use it right away or be very happy with how it came out.

However, more than likely, there will still be some elements you will want to fix in your final image. Perhaps the brightness is too high in your image, causing the blacks to wash out and the whites to be too strong. Maybe the color in your image didn’t come out quite right. Perhaps you need to crop out some elements of your image, perhaps to fit the correct size ratio for printing (most digital camera shoot 3:4 or 4:3, depending on your perspective, while an 8x10 image is obviously 5:4, and a 4x6 is obviously 2:3).

In any case, if you need to make fixes, you can do them digitally, using software available on the market. More than likely, your digital camera (if you are using one) came with a suite of tools to handle at least the most basic tasks (color adjustment, brightness/contrast, red-eye reduction, cropping). However, if you are planning to do some more serious editing, you will want to get your hands on a real software suite, such as Photoshop, The GIMP, or Paint Shop Pro. Of the three, Photoshop tends to be the most powerful to use and is the most standard, Paint Shop Pro tends to be the easiest and reasonably priced, and The GIMP tends to also be powerful, but a bit cumbersome. However, the price (free) can’t be beat, and makes it the best substitute if you can’t afford Photoshop. For this column, however, I’ll be stating instructions specifically for Adobe Photoshop 7 for Windows (which is what I use). However, the instructions should easily be adaptable to the Mac version, and most programs have at least some of the methods I’ll discuss, albeit perhaps with different names and use. Unfortunately, I cannot simplify the vocabulary, so be sure to be familiar with at least some of the names for the Photoshop menus and palettes and objects.

I will be approaching the fixes you can make in order of how far the image is altered from the original image and intent. If you are an absolute purist who cannot stand images being altered, you won’t want to read very far, if anywhere at all. On the other hand, if you don’t really mind altering your images, and you want them to look as good as you can possibly make them, read further on. It should also go without saying that since many of these procedures require some sort of alteration to the image that it’s best to make sure you always keep backups of the original, and save after every successful procedure, and if possible, keep each important checkpoint within a new layer (remember that you can use layers to do work, including adjustment layers to actually handle the phases that deal with color and brightness correction).

Sidebar: Examples.

As with the previous article, I will try to put up various examples of before and after shots in this margin. You can view a large version of the image by clicking on the image. The examples will follow to the left of the relevant section for the image.

[ resizing images ]

I’m not going to go in detail with this one, since anyone who has used any of these tools for a little bit should know how to resize images. All I will say to this end is that images for the web should probably not exceed about 1024x768 at most (and usually, smaller is better), and that images for print should have preferably at least 150 pixels per inch of print in each direction.

Example Image 1Example 1: Basic color, brightness, and contrast correction. This Gundam image originally had a bit of a nasty blue/purple color cast over the image. I've adjusted the image by applying a bit of color correction away from blue and purple. The image still has a bit of the cast, but it's a lot better than from before. I could have fooled around with the image cast further, but it looked okay at this point.

 

[ color, brightness, and contrast correction ]

The first step in fixing your images for use digitally is to deal with any problems with color or brightness/contrast that your image has. Since these are flaws introduced in the camera or scanning processes, and do not accurately reflect the original image as intended, this is a fairly minor but powerful and necessary correction.

First of all, if you are using Photoshop 7, start with both the Image -> Adjust -> Auto Color command and the Image -> Adjust -> Auto Levels command (if you are using a version of Photoshop earlier than 7, you’ll only have the Auto Levels command at your disposal). Of course, if either of those commands adds a wrong hue to the image, you can always Edit -> Undo the last step, or go back in the history in Photoshop.

From there, if your picture needs further color correction, you can use one of several methods for adjusting. The easiest by far for Photoshop users for adjusting color is the Image -> Adjust -> Variations dialog. Using this dialog, users get a preview of what the image would look like using any one of 6 color corrections (CGYRMB) at varying strengths, and can pick using the thumbnails. If you are a bit stronger in color adjustment skills, you can use the Image -> Adjust -> Color Balance tool to do a linear color correction, or the Image -> Adjust -> Levels or Image -> Adjust -> Curves on the various color channels to do a more powerful color correction. The color balance tool is still a relatively easy tool for doing color correction with some fine control, while doing it individually in levels or curves is a bit of an advanced task best avoided if you aren’t used to the tools.

A hint for color correction: if you can’t quite tell if your image has a color cast, then take a close look at areas that should be white and black. White areas especially reveal color casts (you can use the eyedropper to find out if there is a cast). However, most of the time, if you can’t tell that there’s a color cast, then you’ve probably come relatively close to the right color.

For making further adjustments to brightness and contrast, it’s best to stay away from the Image -> Adjust -> Brightness/Contrast tool, and instead, go straight to the Image -> Adjust -> Levels and Image -> Adjust -> Curves tools. In this case, the levels are easier to use, but the curves again offer more power if you know how to use them. If you are dealing with brightness and contrast in levels, note that the middle triangle deals with the gamma, and will adjust brightness. The left and right triangles (black and white) deal with white points and black points, and will help improve contrast by setting the clipping points for black and white. Dragging the black and white triangles closer to center increase contrast. Moving the gray triangle left increases brightness, while moving it right decreases brightness. For curves, adding a point to transform the curve adjusts the brightness (adding multiple points allows more control to what colors are brightened/darkened) while adjusting the two end points adjusts the contrast (white and black points). A caveat: be cautious in increasing contrast, as good looking pictures do still have some contrast in them, and making the contrast too high can lead to really odd looking images.


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